Overview
Annapurna I Expedition (8,091m / 26,545ft)
Annapurna I is the 10th highest mountain in the world and the first 8,000-meter peak ever climbed. It lies in the Annapurna Range of north-central Nepal and is known for its steep, avalanche-prone slopes, making it one of the most technically difficult and dangerous 8,000m expeditions.Its is also called silent killer mountain .
Historical Background
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First Ascent: June 3, 1950
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First Climbers: Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal (French Expedition)
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Significance: First 8,000-meter peak successfully climbed in the world.
Location
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Region: Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal
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Access: Drive or flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara, then trekking/heli to base camp
Key Facts
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Elevation: 8,091 meters (26,545 feet)
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Climbing Route: Most commonly via the North Face (via French route)
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Base Camp Elevation: ~4,200 meters
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Total Duration: Approx. 45–50 days (including acclimatization and weather window)
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Best Season: Pre-monsoon (April–May) and post-monsoon (September–October)
Expedition Itinerary (45 Days)
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m)
– Welcome and expedition briefing.
Day 02–03: Expedition preparation and permit formalities
– Final gear checks, logistics coordination.
Day 04: Drive/Fly to Pokhara, then drive to Tatopani (1,200m)
Day 05–09: Trek from Tatopani to Annapurna Base Camp (4,200m)
– Trek through Lete, Hum Khola, and Miristi Khola.
Day 10–15: Acclimatization and Puja at Base Camp
– Rotation hikes, ice practice, rest, and local blessing ceremony.
Climbing Period (25–30 Days)
Camp Setup:
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Camp I – 5,400m: Snowfield, crevasses, steep ascent
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Camp II – 5,800m: Ice and mixed climbing section
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Camp III – 6,500m: Exposed ridges
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Camp IV – 7,100m: High snow slopes, final summit push
Day 16–40:
– Climbing rotations, acclimatization climbs to Camps I–III
– Wait for weather window
– Summit Push: Camp I → Camp II → Camp III → Camp IV → SUMMIT
– Descend to Base Camp
Day 41–43: Trek back to Pokhara
– Descend via same route
Day 44: Drive or fly to Kathmandu
– Debriefing with Ministry of Tourism
Day 45: Departure
What's Included
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Airport transfers and Kathmandu hotel stay
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Expedition permits and TIMS
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Domestic transportation (Kathmandu to Pokhara, trek start)
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Base camp services (tents, food, kitchen, satellite comms)
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High-altitude Sherpa and guide team
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All group climbing gear, ropes, tents
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Porters/yaks to carry equipment
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Medical and communication support
What's Not Included
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Personal climbing gear
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International airfare
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Emergency evacuation and insurance
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Alcoholic drinks, tips, and personal expenses
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Summit bonus for Sherpas
Expedition Difficulty & Risks
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Highly technical, steep ice and avalanche zones
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One of the highest fatality rates among 8000ers
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Requires previous 7000m+ climbs and excellent physical/mental fitness
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Strong emphasis on weather window planning and team coordination
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