Annapurna Expedition

Overview

 Annapurna I Expedition  (8,091m / 26,545ft)

Annapurna I is the 10th highest mountain in the world and the first 8,000-meter peak ever climbed. It lies in the Annapurna Range of north-central Nepal and is known for its steep, avalanche-prone slopes, making it one of the most technically difficult and dangerous 8,000m expeditions.Its is also called silent killer mountain .


Historical Background

  • First Ascent: June 3, 1950

  • First Climbers: Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal (French Expedition)

  • Significance: First 8,000-meter peak successfully climbed in the world.


 Location

  • Region: Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal

  • Access: Drive or flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara, then trekking/heli to base camp


Key Facts

  • Elevation: 8,091 meters (26,545 feet)

  • Climbing Route: Most commonly via the North Face (via French route)

  • Base Camp Elevation: ~4,200 meters

  • Total Duration: Approx. 45–50 days (including acclimatization and weather window)

  • Best Season: Pre-monsoon (April–May) and post-monsoon (September–October)


 Expedition Itinerary (45 Days)

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m)

– Welcome and expedition briefing.

 Day 02–03: Expedition preparation and permit formalities

– Final gear checks, logistics coordination.

Day 04: Drive/Fly to Pokhara, then drive to Tatopani (1,200m)

 Day 05–09: Trek from Tatopani to Annapurna Base Camp (4,200m)

– Trek through Lete, Hum Khola, and Miristi Khola.

Day 10–15: Acclimatization and Puja at Base Camp

– Rotation hikes, ice practice, rest, and local blessing ceremony.


 Climbing Period (25–30 Days)

Camp Setup:

  • Camp I – 5,400m: Snowfield, crevasses, steep ascent

  • Camp II – 5,800m: Ice and mixed climbing section

  • Camp III – 6,500m: Exposed ridges

  • Camp IV – 7,100m: High snow slopes, final summit push

Day 16–40:

– Climbing rotations, acclimatization climbs to Camps I–III
– Wait for weather window
Summit Push: Camp I → Camp II → Camp III → Camp IV → SUMMIT
– Descend to Base Camp


Day 41–43: Trek back to Pokhara

– Descend via same route

Day 44: Drive or fly to Kathmandu

– Debriefing with Ministry of Tourism

 Day 45: Departure


What's Included

  • Airport transfers and Kathmandu hotel stay

  • Expedition permits and TIMS

  • Domestic transportation (Kathmandu to Pokhara, trek start)

  • Base camp services (tents, food, kitchen, satellite comms)

  • High-altitude Sherpa and guide team

  • All group climbing gear, ropes, tents

  • Porters/yaks to carry equipment

  • Medical and communication support


 What's Not Included

  • Personal climbing gear

  • International airfare

  • Emergency evacuation and insurance

  • Alcoholic drinks, tips, and personal expenses

  • Summit bonus for Sherpas


 Expedition Difficulty & Risks

  • Highly technical, steep ice and avalanche zones

  • One of the highest fatality rates among 8000ers

  • Requires previous 7000m+ climbs and excellent physical/mental fitness

  • Strong emphasis on weather window planning and team coordination

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