Overview

 Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam (6,812 meters / 22,349 feet) is one of the most stunning and technically challenging mountains in the Himalayas, often called the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas" due to its sharp, soaring ridges and spectacular shape.

Location

• Located in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal

• Lies in the Everest region, south of Mt. Everest and Lhotse

• Part of Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Why Ama Dablam?

• Considered the most iconic and beautiful mountain in Nepal

• Popular among climbers aiming to test themselves before attempting 8,000-meter peaks like Everest

• Offers challenging rock, snow, and ice climbing

• Requires strong technical skills and previous high-altitude experience

• Known for its exposed ridges, vertical rock faces, and narrow climbing route

History

• First ascent in 1961 by a New Zealand-American team including Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes.

• “Ama Dablam” means “Mother’s Necklace”, referring to the hanging glacier (dablam) that resembles a jewel worn by Sherpa women.

Climbing Overview

• Base Camp: ~4,570 meters

• Camp I: ~5,700 meters (rocky ridgeline)

• Camp II: ~6,000 meters (exposed ridgeline, technical terrain)

• Camp III: ~6,300 meters (snow and ice section)

• Summit: 6,812 meters (incredible panoramic views)

What You See from the Summit

• Mount Everest (8,848m)

• Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu

• Baruntse, Cho Oyu

• Majestic views of Khumbu and Imja valleys

Ideal Climbing Seasons

• Spring (April to May): Warmer, more stable weather

• Autumn (October to November): Clear skies, excellent views

Who Should Attempt?

• Experienced climbers with previous alpine or Himalayan experience

• Familiarity with fixed rope systems, crampons, ice axe, and technical rock climbing

• Physically fit for steep ascents and exposed conditions

Highlights

• Unique pyramid shape, highly photogenic

• Challenging but non-8000m peak, a perfect stepping stone to Everest

• Immersive experience in Sherpa culture and the Everest region

• Fly into Lukla and trek through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Pangboche